A very classy burger joint

From a culinary dream team of Daniel Mondok (formerly of Sel Gris), Kurt Huffman (Ping, Gruner and Whisky Soda Lounge) and The Oregonian’s 2009 Food Star of the Year Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Ping and Whisky Soda Lounge), a Portland diner can only expect great things. Foster Burger delivers on quality, but perhaps not the kind you would expect.

The restaurant, located in Southeast Portland, combats the qualities of stuffy food culture that can often be found in critically acclaimed Portland restaurants. The interior is somewhat of a hybrid between a rock venue and a family restaurant, with band flyers papering the walls, The Ramones singing on the stereo and homey, wood paneled booths. The friendly service staff and a backyard BBQ are familiar and genuine, with each burger wrapped in checkered paper sitting in a plastic basket. There isn’t a haughty attitude in sight.

“People have been like, ‘why are there only two wines on the menu?'” Mondok said. “But we’re not here for self-righteous food critics. We’re just here to be an affordable burger joint with good quality food.”

This mindset is developed well, and while looking at their one-page menu, it is evident that Foster Burger values quality over quantity. For those who are into no-fuss classics, The Foster Burger, as well as the other burgers on the menu, is made of hand-ground organic beef and can be accompanied by all the usual suspects: cheddar, bacon or a farm-fresh fried egg. Vegetarians can join the party with a vegan and gluten-free patty, and the more adventurous are offered the Kiwi Burger, a lamb burger with pickled beets and a fried egg.

Never had a homemade pickle? Each burger is topped with these tangy and crunchy treats, as well as Foster Sauce made with Dijon, cornichons and mayo. Along with each humungous burger comes a heaping side of fries that have a crispy exterior and a soft center.

In addition to the simplistic menu offered is a chalkboard of seasonal specials that help the chefs flex their more refined culinary muscles. Recently available was a plate of crisped fries dressed in Parmesan and truffle oil, accompanied by a squid-ink aioli for $8. With a menu that rarely goes over $11, it’s easy to see why, by 6 p.m., the restaurant is already packed with people from all walks of life.

Foster Burger doesn’t forget the smaller mouths, either. They have their own version of the kids meal, with a smaller burger and portion of fries, as well as kid cocktails such as a Shirley Temple or a Roy Rogers.

Lents is a neighborhood that inhabits more than just the 20-something crowd, and Mondok and his partners haven’t forgotten that.

“This is a really diverse neighborhood with all kinds of ethnicities and young couples,” Mondok said. “They deserve something affordable with good quality, especially now when the economy sucks.”

With burgers everywhere on the culinary map, one might wonder what sets this particular burger joint apart. Mondok has heard every comparison, from Burgerville to McMenamins.

“While I appreciate what McMenamins is doing, their service and food suck,” Mondok said. “The only thing we do have in common is something they achieve well, and that’s approachability.”

Walking into Foster Burger, diners can find a plate with nuts and water in the opening room to feed ravenous appetites while waiting. It is touches like this that prove the restaurant might be about more than the three categories Mondok defines Foster Burger to be—beer, rock ‘n’ roll and burgers. Perhaps, there’s a little bit of heart too.