With all the ethnic cuisine Portland has to offer, it’s incredible that so many countries are passed over in favor of yet another Thai or Mexican restaurant.
Where’s all the great Cuban food, or Brazilian/Argentinean churrascarias? Yet, even with the lack of South American cuisines, there’s a similar dearth of European fare. Especially overlooked is British cuisine.
Where better than Portland-a city that adamantly supports even minor-league soccer, loves a great beer and adores fish and chips-to support a restaurant that emphasizes all these things? Well, chums, let me introduce you to the bloody delicious Horse Brass Pub.
When you walk into the Horse Brass, the first thing you’ll notice is the abundance of smoke. Ah, good ol’ Brits. They claim to openly support cigars and cigarettes in their pub because they “believe adults should have a choice.” Curiously, there is no choice for a non-smoker to sit someplace where you don’t feel like hacking up a lung. However, this will change come Jan. 1, 2009, when Oregon state law will prohibit indoor smoking in public venues.
Despite the smoking, the Horse Brass has a very enjoyable ambiance. It’s the closest thing to an authentic English pub I’ve seen on this side of the Atlantic. It’s dimly lit, has English Premier League soccer (or football, as they’ll call it) on the big-screen TVs, and of course, there’s darts. The menu is not lacking on choices, either.
Try the Scotch Egg ($3.50), a hard-boiled egg wrapped in sausage and then deep-fried. They also offer the British staple of fish and chips ($9.95), which is made with excellent halibut. Additionally, they have an immense selection of quality Northwest beers, from Deschutes to Rogue to Lagunitas to Laurelwood. Horse Brass’ daily specials are great as well. All are priced at $6.50, from bangers and mash, to Shepherd’s Pie, except on Thursdays (when they offer a bit more food).
The only complaint I have about the Horse Brass is the service. Unfortunately, the last time I went, the chips were not good-at all-and when I asked the waitress about it, she only offered to replace it with potato salad or something similar. The potato salad was decent, but it would have been better if she had offered a discount on the meal.
Also, when asking for the food to go, they handed me only a paper plate and tin foil to wrap the whole thing up. Not exactly the best option for riding the bus or biking home.
If you’re under 21, you’ll have to wait a little longer to visit. The pub won’t be open to all ages until January. Until then, you’ll probably be stuck choosing between a burrito and Pad Thai.
4534 S.E. Belmont St.Serving main dishes until midnight, appetizers after.21-plus until January