Early in the morning creeps an underground society of Portland hunters, tribes of people constantly in search of new feeding grounds. They’re the breakfast crowd. Some catch a bite on their way to work while others traditionally get their breakfast fix after Sunday church.
And should you be among those morning crowds, just remember this: Good things come to those who wait. Because believe me, you will wait. So get your name on the list, and hopefully you brought the morning paper or some good company. While you embark upon your breakfast quest, be sure to take note of the following establishments. This food should not be missed.
Cricket Cafe
3159 SE Belmont St.
Breakfast served daily, 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
You’ve probably driven past it on Belmont Street before, not noticing its modest demeanor. However, the flavor found at the Cricket is anything but modest. Here, they have found a way to make a variety of unique breakfast dishes without going off the deep end, making the customer feel lost and beleaguered reading through their menu. The prize meals here are the variety of scrambles they offer, as well as the breakfast burritos.
Screen Door
2337 E Burnside St.
Breakfast served Saturdays and Sundays, 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Hope you like grits! The Screen Door attempts a deep-South feel from Creole to Cajun. Though the ambience gives me a bit more of a swanky, hip and urban Northwest vibe, the food maintains all the southern kick one can handle. Who could resist fried chicken and waffles or some good ol’ biscuits and gravy?
Marathon Taverna
1735 W Burnside St.
Breakfast served daily, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.
OK, yes, it is a bar, and a sports bar at that. It has all the barflies and nightly barhopping hipster jerk offs one would find at a local dive. But don’t be fooled: The Marathon has a nice, down-home comfortable feel. Breakfast at the Marathon is something so very hard to find at restaurants these days, basic and cheap. And that doesn’t translate into poor quality either. For example, the Four Deuces breakfast is $2 and gets you two strips of bacon, two eggs and toast. It’s just the right portion and price.
Bijou Café
132 SW Third Ave.
Breakfast served Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Some may avoid trying out the Bijou Café with its pretentious first impression. But just make your way to a table and give it a try. You’ll never find bad service and will always come across a smile or two. You get the feeling people actually like being and working there. This good vibe is interpreted in the food. Pancakes seem to be the popular choice here, but I find their omelets are worthy of equal praise.
Cup and Saucer
3566 SE Hawthorne Blvd., Breakfast served daily, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.
3000 NE Killingsworth St., Breakfast served daily, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
8237 N Denver Ave., Breakfast served daily, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.
There is always a new taste to explore here, in that you will want to try everything on the menu. And when you’re done with that, they will usually have a new, unique special on the board. I know it sounds a bit weird, but the pasta specials are always amazing, even for breakfast. The French toast also must be tried with your choice of challah, cinnamon-raisin or sourdough bread coated in what I believe to be some sort of narcotic, as you will continually crave more.
Tin Shed Garden Cafe
1438 NE Alberta St.
Breakfast served daily, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Remember that waiting thing I mentioned earlier? Well, the Tin Shed helps alleviate that irritating byproduct of dining out by having plenty of coffee ready while you mull about on the sidewalk. The Shed offers a host of attractable qualities. Their patio is rather nice with a fireplace, and an almost picnic-like setting. Bring your best well-behaved, furry friend too, because they also offer a dog menu for Fido. The food has the cleverest names of any place I’ve visited such as “Rosemary’s Gravy Baby” or the “Goat Boy.” And the names actually do reflect the food—you’ve just got to be there to understand.