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Night of the Living Mocha

From the outside, it’s nearly impossible to tell that Rimsky-Korsakoffeehouse is one of Portland’s greatest late-night spots.

Indeed, Rimsky’s is one of the Rose City’s best-kept secrets. You won’t find it easily, there’s no sign advertising the place, and if you already know about the cafe, you most likely heard about it from a friend. However, once you enter Rimsky’s, there is no way you won’t be back.

It isn’t clear why Rimsky’s is unknown, but perhaps its intimacy is a factor. A converted Victorian home, Rimsky’s doesn’t seem capable of seating more than about 35 people. You wouldn’t want to see this place after last week’s Obama rally, for instance. It can get crowded.

One of the most frustrating things when visiting the cafe; for the first time is the lack of a traditional host or hostess. There’s only a sign on a chair telling you to grab a menu and sit yourself down. To some, this can be taken as bad service, but really it conveys a message of casual comfort. You can make yourself at home without pretentious hosts or hostesses putting on fake smiles.

Rimsky’s desserts (which are the only thing on the menu) range from typical café fare such as lattes and mochas to finer things such as ice cream brownie sundaes or the White Chocolate Raspberry Fool, which many will find difficult to obtain in the late-night hours, as it sells out quickly.

The Fool (one which I’ll gladly tolerate) is a cousin to trifles and mousse. Doused in white chocolate and infused with raspberry, this dessert is seriously worth the trip, the money and the wait.

One of the other attractive things about Rimsky’s is the atmosphere. It goes without saying, as any Rimsky’s regular will tell you, that you must check out the bathroom. The journey there and back is an experience in and of itself. Just be prepared.

The interior of the restaurant is rather spooky as well. During one of my last trips, a half-hour after they opened at 7:30 p.m., the sun was still shining bright, but it was a little bit eerie nonetheless. This was probably a result of the fact that there was no one there. Indeed, most people tend to show up long after the sun goes down.

Rimsky’s has interesting tables–if you visit, watch them closely. One table is known to very slowly rotate, and another is known to very slowly rise and descend. It’s enough to lend credibility to Rimsky’s slogan: the home of the “casually threatening atmosphere.”

Despite these peculiarities, Rimsky’s is a wonderful place to go at night, whether with a group of friends, with your sweetie or even just by yourself. A Rimsky’s visitor mans the piano almost constantly, but the staff will stress that you have to know what you’re doing in order to tickle the ivories. Aside from that, they have acts that come in and play.

Rimsky’s is located right off Southeast12th Avenue and Alder Street, on the west side of the street. Again, there’s no signage indicating where the cafe; is, so you’ll have to look closely. A word to the wise: Rimsky’s doesn’t take credit or debit cards, and there’s no ATM inside, so if you come unprepared, you’ll have to run to the Plaid Pantry next door. And that, regardless of your culinary preference, is never a welcome proposition.

Rimsky-Korsakoffehouse (www.rimskys.blogspot.com/)Prices range from $5 to $7, roughly. Serves mostly coffee-related drinks and desserts.Good for: Late-night dining, romantic spot, desserts, post-inebriation.Address: 707 S.E. 12th Ave.Open from: 7 p.m.-midnight, Sun.-Thurs.; 7 p.m.-1 a.m., Fri. and Sat.

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