Sampling spring

Spring has finally arrived, to the delight of serious and casual food lovers alike.

A Portland Saturday ritual has resumed, and the past two Saturdays, the city’s residents have flocked to buy springtime produce, local cheese and organic vegetable starts for their gardens and old-world baked goods.

The Portland Farmers Market started strong this year, counting record numbers of customers on its April 7 opening day. After the usual three-month closure for winter months, Hallie Mittleman, the market’s senior manager, said she hadn’t expected such a busy start.

“It was the first time we had more than 10,000 people on opening day,” Mittleman said. “Pretty incredible for a rainy day.”

The market was founded in 1992, with 13 vendors. It now organizes four weekly markets throughout the city and, based on gross sales reported by vendors, has grown about 10 percent each year, Mittleman said. Altogether, gross sales for 2006 were $5 million.

Early in the year, markets devote more booths to bakers, preserves and cheeses, spaces that will later go to farms selling produce with short but intense growing seasons. Right now, you’ll find ample samples of local goat and cow milk cheeses, a portable wood-fired oven yielding simple pizzas, and a new pastry booth selling tiny, thumb-sized sandwich cookies.

Spring produce offers tender salad greens like delicate mache and juicy watercress. Leafier varieties of kale and chard are stacked in bunches next to piles of bright green leeks. The first shoots of local asparagus appeared last week.

Although there aren’t a bounty of choices, don’t let the slimmer pickings keep you from the market. Summer is on its way, and enjoying the crisp, clean, tender flavors of spring is a perfect way to get there.

Plunge veggies like asparagus in boiling water for a few minutes, then drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper. Fold steamed greens into an omelet. It doesn’t take much work to bring out these delicate, sweet flavors. Don’t overwhelm mild flavors such as these with strong cheeses, super-creamy textures or complex gamey meats.

Scallops with asparagus, leeks and pine nuts

This recipe would be just as good with any mild, firm fish. Try halibut.

Ingredients:1.5 pounds scallops, the bigger the better, preferably never frozen1 bunch asparagus, pale ends removed and cut into 1-inch pieces1 medium-sized leek, green ends removed1 medium shallot, diced small3 tablespoons butterSea saltFresh ground pepper2 cups dry white wine or champagne1/3 cup pine nuts, toasted1 tablespoon olive oil1/4 cup shredded parmesan cheese

Prepare leeks, removing the darker green ends. These will be tough if cooked. Leaving the root end intact, quarter the leek lengthwise into long strips. Open the resulting strips and wash thoroughly in between the layers. Cut strips crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces.

Fill a medium saucepan with 3 quarts water, and set on high heat to boil. We’ll use this to blache the asparagus.

In a medium saut퀌� pan, saut퀌� leeks and shallots in 1 tablespoon of butter over medium-high heat. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and a bit of fresh ground pepper. Stir occasionally, allowing to brown just a bit. Add 1 cup of wine, and reduce until the liquid is almost gone. Remove from heat.

Add 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water, and add asparagus. Cook for 2 minutes, until bright green. Strain, and turn saut퀌� pan back on to medium high. Add asparagus to leek mixture, and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from heat and transfer to a plate, allowing to cool to room temperature. Stir in pine nuts.

Prepare scallops, removing the outer muscle on the side of the scallop. Pat dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

-Recipe property of Deeda Schroeder