It is an unfortunate truth about Portland that genuine and pleasant restaurant service is rarer than decent coffee at 7-Eleven. Too often the best places to grab a meal—or a drink for that matter—in this city also turn out to be the best spots to get the cold shoulder from a waiter who thinks he’s a rock star in an apron.
Fortunately for those of us who prefer to give our money to nice people, there are places like Bunk Sandwiches. The recently opened east side sandwich shop is tiny and popular, which means it is also frequently crowded. But even on a cold January afternoon, with a line of people out the front door waiting to order, every table inside packed and a small handful of people scrunched together waiting for their to-go orders, the atmosphere at Bunk remained relaxed, upbeat and welcoming.
With sandwich selections such as chicken liver pate or slow roasted pork shoulder gracing the chalkboard menu, the lengthy line was a good thing, giving my sandwich-tasting partner and I several minutes to change our minds repeatedly.
As a fan of mid-afternoon breakfasts, I had been hoping to try the biscuits and rabbit gravy Bunk lists on its Web site as a sandwich possibility, but unfortunately it wasn’t up for grabs. We settled instead on roast beef with horseradish and fresh onions and a hot meatball parmigiano hero. We grabbed a classic Italian cured meat sub to split for dinner later.
At $8 and up per sandwich, Bunk is not cheap for what it is. Three sandwiches, a small (very refreshing) lemon-mint iced tea and a 16-ounce coffee came to over $27. And these are not big sandwiches, either. All three of our choices were satisfying and delicious, but the simplicity of the ingredients—in our choices, at least—and the ultra casual, thrift-store-dishes atmosphere of the place just didn’t mesh with the prices.
However, as we stood by the fine selection of hot sauces at the condiments counter waiting for our sandwiches, I saw what can only be described as a classic diner moment: a long lunch counter packed with customers chatting as the foursome directly opposite toasted bread, arranged meat and bagged chips. The windows fogged up from the steam of the slow cooker, and the woman at the counter was so full of energy that in a spare moment she spontaneously started dancing. Being so accustomed to the chilly hipster reserve of lunch spots elsewhere, I’d say Bunk’s attitude is well worth the few extra bucks.
But back to the sandwiches. Seriously people, Bunk’s are easily among the best in town. The cured meat Italian in particular stood out as a winner among our choices. Sharp provolone picante cheese, smooth and spicy meats, and a good portion of hot peppers, onions and lettuce were tucked into a hoagie roll and given a healthy dose of vinegar and oil sandwich dressing. The cool, tangy, peppery result was what you always imagine an Italian sub should taste like, but rarely, if ever, does.
Similarly, the meatball hero was a big, sloppy, gregarious mess of a sandwich, totally not afraid to be itself. The meatballs were enormous and just spicy enough, and the sauce was thick and rich and tasted zesty and fresh. The melted cheese seemed to get lost in all the sauce, though, and the parmesan flavor only peeked out from behind the tomato and meat once or twice.
My only real gripe with Bunk is their hours. The shop is open from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday, yet they do not start serving their sandwich menu (with the exception of either the egg and cheese or the bacon, egg and cheese breakfast sandwiches) until 11 a.m. This means the ravenous horde that is Portland’s lunch crowd has four measly hours to cram themselves through the front door of Bunk’s cute little shop to get their sammie fix.
This coy behavior may entice some, but for many a college student on this side of the river, I predict it will most likely mean a disappointed stomach and a trip to a less-worthy deli come 3:30 p.m. Bunk has barely been open for a little over a month now, so let’s hope their hours of operation become as friendly and welcoming as their staff.
More on the Web:
Bunk Sandwiches: http://bunksandwiches.com/
See what others are saying: http://www.yelp.com/biz/bunk-sandwiches-portland
Related content:
Banh mi: http://www.dailyvanguard.com/2.4079/1.312407
Sandwich recipes: http://www.dailyvanguard.com/2.4081/1.312234
The Acorn: http://www.dailyvanguard.com/2.4061/1.311757
Get there: Follow the map to try Bunk for yourself.
