Southern comfort

If you have ever been to the South, you will know that dinner there is often a sit-down affair. Food is enjoyed leisurely and no one leaves the table until everything has been eaten. Cornmeal, okra, catfish, beef and tomatoes all stir up warm memories of Southern hospitality. Beware of nostalgia.

Miss Delta is a branch of a southeast Portland restaurant called the Delta Café. In October of 2007, Miss Delta opened and has done splendidly in the up-and-coming neighborhood around Mississippi Ave. The chef is from New Orleans, and thus the food is overwhelmingly flavorful, and unmistakably Southern.

You will have to bring a large appetite to Miss Delta. I learned this the hard way.

I started off my meal with the fried okra, a dish that I have been consistently in love with since my first taste. They were excellent, coated with cornmeal, and had absolutely no grease. This was an appetizer, and was in itself quite filling. The gumbo—packed with chicken, shrimp and rice—was a tad on the heavy side, but otherwise perfect. Next came fried chicken.

Everyone who has had Southern fried chicken knows it needs to be crispy and greasy, with just the right amount of salt. My dish was a perfection of this form, although too large to finish. The dish is made with huge chickens, and is probably more food than anyone should ever finish.

Other menu items that may be of interest: sweet potato fries, the jambalaya, meatloaf and blackened catfish. If you are in the mood for something simple (and lighter), there is always the option of corn bread, red beans and rice.

With all orders, you can choose two sides to accompany your already huge meal. Options include black-eyed peas and mac and cheese. The cornbread is OK, a tad underwhelming though and way too crumbly.

The ambience is lovely with a long room, a full bar in the middle and an open kitchen. Condiments are available and there are many pitchers of water around, so you can fill up when you need to.

There is a long drink menu, and I would suggest ordering the mint julep to top off your Southern dinner experience. Other recommended drinks are the ginger martini and farmer’s daughter. If you are not a drinker, there is always sweet tea.

Miss Delta has friendly, laid-back service but is a popular joint, so remember to get there early on weekend nights. Crowds get there fast, but there is plenty to do on Mississippi while you wait for a table.

Prices at Miss Delta are quite reasonable, considering the large portions. With business hours that (thankfully) stretch to midnight, I will definitely be finding an excuse to return to Miss Delta.