The roof is on fire

After six months of planning, working and preparing, Eric Rose and Matthew Busetto finally opened a new restaurant: The Firehouse.

The cooking complements the name and, yes, it is really a restaurant in a firehouse. The eatery is located in the historic Dekum Firehouse (built in 1913). This firehouse used to be a horse stable on the lower level, and a dorm for firefighters on the top. Interestingly enough, the horse stable area is now a decadent restaurant, restored, re-furnished and beautiful.

The phenomenon of wood-fired oven restaurants has spread quickly, to no one’s surprise. The effect good wood-fire oven cooking has on food is noticeable to say the least. The oven is used throughout the day for many different purposes and makes for some good eats.

They roast their veggies, their cobblers, pies, pig shoulders and of course, pizza in the vast furnaces. The result is that all dishes come out with a crisp brown layer, and are cooked to perfection.

The atmosphere is warm, comforting and laid back, but still feels very modern. The waiters are very knowledgeable of the menu and the food that goes into the dishes.

For example, all food is fresh, dishes are guided by the seasons, all meats are local, all seafood is harvested in a sustainable fashion and all produce is regional. The Firehouse even grows some of it’s own vegetables, in a garden that circles the restaurant.

Why are they so focused on organic and local food? Well, the two owners have been in the food industry for a number of years, and they both worked at New Seasons, one as a chef, and the other as a food services director.

Opening up their own restaurant entails incorporating their organic food values to their menu and a sampling of the Firehouse’s fare shows that their efforts have paid off.

The menu is very simple, rather rustic and changes daily. However, their rule of simplicity and honesty does not change. The menu is influenced by central and southern Italian dishes, and in respect to the theme, is paired which an excellent wine list.

Appetizers such as Manchego sheep’s milk cheese with Hood River honey, pork confit crostini and roasted beets with feta, grace the top of the menu. Small plates such as arugula salad with sheep’s milk cheese, bruschetta and pickled peppers, as well as lentil soup with roasted chestnuts make choosing an entrée difficult.

It is very possible to attend the Firehouse and be happy with an appetizer and a small plate. However, entrees include delicious pizza, which, although a bit heavy on the olive oil, is up there with the offerings of restaurants such as Tastebud Farm and Ken’s.

On my visit I had the pizza with Walla Walla onions, spicy sausage and fresh mozzarella. It was delectable. And happily, the pizza has a generous amount of mozzarella.

Other entrees include wood-fired mussels with tomato, Portuguese peppers, a large rotisserie chicken with olive oil, mashed potatoes and grilled hanger steak with crispy potatoes and arugula.

The Firehouse’s wonderful menu, paired with its romantic environment, makes it easy to recommend this restaurant for a lovely evening out with friends. Everyone should get a different dish so sampling will be an option. The price is reasonable, and the restaurant superb.

Once on Dekum, you can’t miss it: it’s the big red building that looks like, well, a Firehouse.

The Firehouse711 N.E. Dekum StDamage: $12Don’t miss: Lentil soup with roasted chestnuts