When I heard through the local rumor mill that Acorn, the second venture from the owners of Crowsenberg’s Half and Half, was going to be replaced with a new coffee shop, my first instinct was to roll my eyes and comment that the Pearl would soon be welcoming yet another Starbucks.
A new siren of Portland coffee
When I heard through the local rumor mill that Acorn, the second venture from the owners of Crowsenberg’s Half and Half, was going to be replaced with a new coffee shop, my first instinct was to roll my eyes and comment that the Pearl would soon be welcoming yet another Starbucks.
Yet, to my delight and surprise, the new cafe at 539 N.W. 13th Ave. is nothing of the sort. And yet, it isn’t much like the space’s previous occupant, either.
Embodying neither the generic cookie-cutter cafe mentality of the big chains nor the smug-infused, “we smile if we feel like it” brew-hole ambiance present at so many local Stumptown-slinging coffee shops, Barista sits somewhere off to the side from either. The owner behind the counter was completely approachable, answering my questions about the bean selections conversationally, providing me with detailed backgrounds on both the Chicago-based Intelligentsia and Bay Area Ecco Caffe coffees offered in addition to locally roasted Stumptown.
Anyone familiar with Acorn will recognize the light and airy space of the lobby shop, though gone is the homegrown and woodsy feel, replaced with a cool professionalism, perhaps more fitting with the regular clientele. This isn’t to say the space is no longer inviting to anyone not wearing a $400 jacket. People from all walks were lined up all the way to the door for some of Barista’s enticing java, either to sip it at the wooden benches inside or take it out to the loading-dock deck for some rare Portland sun.
Is the coffee at Barista worth such a lengthy line? Absolutely. My cup of French-pressed coffee was velvety rich and smooth, spirited and slightly sweet, with no trace of bitterness. In short, perfect.
A follow-up latte was equally impressive. The espresso flavor came through the steamed milk just right, transforming the cup into a foamy, cozy play on dark and light, topped off with heart-shaped foam art.
And here is the best part about this coffee shop: It is entirely possible that one cappuccino, latte or Americano will taste completely new from one visit to the next. At Barista, you are given a choice of what type of espresso you want in your drink. If you have no preference, the guy behind the counter will pull a couple shots of whichever he thinks will work best with your beverage. The rotating selection of beans from not one but three different nationally celebrated roasters adds a dash of adventure to morning routines.
While the space could be more inviting (seriously, what is with Portland coffee shops and their love of uncomfortable wooden benches?), the experience at Barista is one to be tried at least once, even if you are not the adventurous type. Think of it as a pilgrimage to a new shrine of caffeinated goodness in this city of rosettes.
