Burnside Brewing Company is a can’t-miss destination

Every restaurant needs a gimmick. Is Voodoo Doughnuts really the most famous eatery in Portland because of the quality of its pastries? Of course not; it’s because they offer a maple bar with bacon on it. So what is the gimmick at Burnside Brewing Company ? What possible reason would a Portlander have to frequent this newer establishment, knowing that old brewpub standbys like McMenamin’s, Deschutes and Bridgeport are still readily available?

A recent visit to the restaurant revealed the answer to be, interestingly enough, “duck fat.”

This is what Burnside Brewery cooks their hamburger patties in, and the consequent flavor is sensational. The Brewery Burger is $10 and toppings beyond the standard grilled onions, pickles and house-made ketchup are $1 apiece. Swiss cheese is a perfect complement to the tanginess of the patty and the buttery soft bun. On a scale of Luke Babbitt to LaMarcus Aldridge, the Brewery Burger is easily a Nic Batum, and maybe even a Gerald Wallace when augmented with a $3 side of hops-soaked fries.

Wait a second—hops-soaked fries? Indeed. These magnificent fries only foreshadows how good the beer is. A sampler rack of the Burnside Brewing Company’s beers comes with eight selections: IPA, Oatmeal Pale Ale, Stock Ale, Stout, seasonal Smoked Wheat Gratzer, Burnside Alt, “Nuggets With Attitude” Fresh Hop (the runaway winner for Best Named Thing On The Menu) and Oyster Strong Ale. The highlights were easily the stout and the IPA.

The hops gave the latter selection that distinct flavor that you want from a good IPA, a beer that illuminates all of the taste buds without being overwhelming and is perfectly suited for gradual consumption throughout a meal. However, the gold medal has to go to the stout—when a dark beer manages to be thick and luscious and easily drinkable, you know it’s something special. Compared to Guinness—which you practically need to drink on an empty stomach—it’s a revelation.

If duck fat and heavy beer aren’t for you, there are still plenty of quality options to choose from. Among the appetizers, the cheese plate is great (although ask for bread instead of toast), and the second-best entree is definitely the Coney—a Cincinnati-chili-enhanced hot dog for only $9 that’s worth every penny and then some.

Still, the tangy, duck fat–fried patties and rich brews are what will keep this reporter coming back. If you feel like taking the plunge, go on a Wednesday ($3 pints all day), Tuesday or Thursday (happy hour from 3–6 p.m.) or Sunday (happy hour all day).