Perfect Thai

Perfection is a dangerous word when it comes to restaurants. Balancing food that has been flawlessly prepared with attentive yet unobtrusive service is a tall order. Doing so consistently is rare indeed.

Though not quite perfect, Pok Pok’s authentic Thai street food approaches the mark. Located in a roadside shack for a few years now, a long-awaited expansion has been completed, treating devoted fans to an expanded menu, a full bar and a graceful, if small, dining room.

The new space, the Whiskey Soda Lounge, takes up most of the lower level of an old Victorian adjacent to the tiny structure that still houses the rotisserie and barbeque from which many of Pok Pok’s dishes emerge. Surrounded with warm wood paneling, the 11 tables and four-seat bar are a tight fit but end up coming off more cozy than cramped.

Inside, familiar favorites from the take-out shack start off the menu, but now an upstairs workspace has allowed the creative forces in the kitchen to develop their repertoire fully. Inspired and real, with ingredients and preparations so clean and bright, it is no wonder these noodles and curries stand out in the middle of a sea of ordinary Thai food.

Perfect for grazing, choose a couple of contrasting dishes, sip a whiskey and soda in between tastes, and let the fireworks begin. The lounge takes its name from the whiskey carts that rove between the tables of diners in Thailand. A perfect palate cleanser (among other things), the full, round vanilla notes in the Irish and Scotch whiskeys we tried kept the inevitable sensory overload at bay. Take a sip of whiskey, chase it with soda and move on to the next plate.

If it is your fist time, stick to the staples. The namesake dish, pok pok, is green papaya salad and shouldn’t be missed. Crunchy, tangy and nutty, it is a light complement to pair with the heavier coconut-rich curries and meats. The less adventurous eater will love Khao Man Som Tam, distant cousin to the sweet shredded pork of the American South. Sticky and tender, the smoky meat is punctuated with nutty, crispy fried shallots.

Charcoal roasted game hen, Kai Yaang, is consistently juicy under its crispy, stuffed skin. Lemongrass and garlic permeate the meat, and it only gets better with the phenomenal spicy-sweet dipping sauce. Ask for extra sauce if you’re getting takeout.

Try Neua Naam Tok, thinly sliced flank steak with fresh mint, chili, lemongrass, shallots and plenty of lime. This is spicy, but the meat is perfectly cooked and an amazing collection of sour, nutty and crunchy in a salad.

There are plenty of beers to choose from, a selection of wines and special cocktails. The whiskey was such a great fit, why not check out three over the course of the meal? A whiskey flight offers a sampling from different regions. Plenty of non-alcoholic drinks as well, from young coconut (incredible) to Thai iced coffee made with Stumptown coffee.

Service here is noteworthy, even with just two waiters during a busy lunch. Never pushy or neglectful, the food arrives quickly and warm, even when cooked outside and brought in to your table. Ask questions-these guys know the food, and don’t let you feel like a dummy for asking.

Be assertive and ask for a spicy dish to be prepared mild if you can’t take the heat. It isn’t always apparent which dishes these might be, so let your server know and the kitchen does a remarkable job of honoring these requests.

Prices here are very reasonable, considering portion sizes are generous. Lunch runs under $10 with tip and a basic beverage, and dinner a bit more unless you are doing the whiskey thing.

So, what’s wrong then? A few bumps in the road. With so much growth over the last few months, occasional inconsistencies have been noted, especially when a new cook was in the kitchen. Though most dishes are standouts, some pass by as merely ordinary.

Pok Pok Whiskey Soda Lounge3226 S.E Division St.

Shack hours:Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.Sat 5 p.m.-10 p.m.Closed Sunday

Whiskey Soda Lounge Hours:

Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-2:30p.m.Dinner: Mon-Sat 5 p.m.-12 a.m.Late night menu: Fri-Sat 10 p.m.-12 a.m. Closed Sunday