Riding the sushi train

If you’re looking for a charming restaurant and reasonably priced food on the run, Sushi Ichiban is the place to go.

The first time I entered, I couldn’t help but delight in the quaint atmosphere. There’s a barrage of colorful, almost nautical, decor, from Asian and European to the American Southwest. And with the music ranging from droll elevator tunes to classic rock and electronica, this off-kilter restaurant rather resembles a quirky dive bar.

Sushi Ichiban is not what you would expect from a typical sushi bar. It’s not a high-priced Japanese restaurant trying to be hip or pretentious. At first the grungy facade is off-putting for a sushi joint, but it’s fitting for Portland’s eccentric crowd.

The most remarkable thing is not the food, however, but the way in which it is delivered. The traditional conveyor belt is replaced with a little blue train that circles the bar.

Since there’s limited space on the bed of the train, they stack sushi at the end of the bar for those who can’t find what they’re looking for. There is also a menu of made-to-order items available from the chef, who has even been known to custom-make sushi on a slow day.

The sushi consists of everything from the traditional California Roll (cucumber, imitation crab and avocado) and Philadelphia Roll (salmon, cream cheese and cucumber) to the Tempura Tai (deep-fried red snapper, house sauce and green onion on rice balls) and Kao Special (smoked salmon and asparagus with house sauce).

They also offer a nice assortment of vegetarian options, like the Eliza Roll (deep-fried tofu, bell pepper, carrots with sliced avocado and sweet chili sauce on top) and a whole menu of soups, including Agadashi and Miso, which can be made vegan. For dessert, there’s a selection of cakes and mochi ice cream.

With prices ranging from $1–3, Sushi Ichiban’s inviting milieu and low prices are a refreshing change to many of the nearby sushi alternatives.

“The staff are awesome and help you with sushi choices. They even have a wasabi that they make there,” Portland State senior Sonali Needham said. “Also, what better way to serve customers than a toy train? It’s fun and yummy. I love the food and the venue.”

It’s not the most typical Japanese restaurant you’ll find, but it fits snugly into its Portland niche. The staff is friendly and informative. If you don’t know what you want or can’t remember what you’re looking for, they’re quick to offer suggestions and share their favorite rolls.

It’s especially crowded on Wednesdays and Saturdays, but if you’re looking for an escape from the hustle and bustle, the weekdays are quiet and relaxed.

Sushi Ichiban is right in the heart of Chinatown and represents the kind of oddball eccentricism Portland is famous for.

At 24 NW Broadway, Sushi Ichiban is conveniently located along the green and yellow MAX lines. It’s open from 5–9 p.m. Monday; 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5–9 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; and noon to 3 p.m. and 5–9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.