Russian revolution

Coffee. It’s what my father would call an “honest drink.” It’s not complicated, easy, with no surprises.

Coffee. It’s what my father would call an “honest drink.” It’s not complicated, easy, with no surprises.

Unfortunately, it can be very difficult to find the perfect cup, one that stands up to the demands of freshness, strength and taste. Java Man, however, has excellent coffee and I have found myself there on a regular basis.

Located on Southwest Sixth Ave. and Taylor St., what this place lacks in atmosphere it makes up for in its beverage menu and pleasant surprise of Russian cuisine. It’s not an unpleasant mix in the slightest. While Java Man does in fact sell great coffee, its heart lies in the classic Russian dishes it offers.

Java Man has a casual energy about it, and very low prices. While it is definitely rough around the edges, the shop is clean, very comfortable and the service really stands out. All servers are very friendly, and there is something cheerful about finding yourself sitting among local Russians, throwing back coffee and listening to pleasant chatter about dishes, weather and the differences between real chai and Oregon or  Tazo chai (trust me, that could be an article itself).

Now, lets talk food. The place already has a lovely, yet unusual aroma of Russian dishes, something I found making me hungrier by the second. I was a tad nervous to order Russian food, because generally the dishes are so rich.

Russia, as is commonly known, has a very brutal and long winter. Our recent adventures with 30-degree Portland temperatures is T-shirt and picnic weather in Russia, so one could imagine the food having to be very hearty and carbohydrate filled to give the people energy and sustenance through the cold months.

Russian cuisine is full of carbs and fat–fruits and vegetables are not often used. Thus, the essential ingredients of any good Russian meal are: potatoes, bread, eggs, meat and lots and lots of butter. Other popular ingredients include milk, sour cream, curds, lard, garlic, onions, berries and mushrooms.
 
Java Man serves a delicious pierogi and borscht, among other dishes. Pierogi are dumplings, made of unleavened dough, stuffed full of mashed potatoes, meat, mushrooms, onions and cheese.

Pierogi can actually be filled with a variety of options, and also comes as a dessert. The sweet dumplings are stuffed with classic Russian black cherries (also used to sweeten tea), raspberries, peach, prunes or apples. The dumpling itself is very chewy and doughy. It’s a terrific, warm, winter dish.

Borscht is a classic Russian soup. Russia boasts many flavorful stews, of which this one is a classic. Borscht is a hearty vegetable soup with a beetroot base. There are many optional ingredients used in this soup, including beans, cabbage, carrots, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, chicken, pork or beef. Served hot, borscht is often eaten with rich bread. However, borscht can also be served cold, in which case, it is enjoyed with a potato with dill and sour cream.

Now Java Man also serves Russian chocolate and the prices here are perfect—very low. So, it’s actually the best place to go if you are looking for a hearty meal, a bit of cultural immersion and a food option that won’t eat up your entire budget.