Taking a class in good food, Oregon style

On Northeast 33rd Avenue, past Concordia College and just after Northeast Killingsworth Street, is Portland’s locally-owned restaurant/bar/brewery/movie theater/bed and breakfast, The Kennedy School McMenamins.

When Kennedy Elementary School first opened in 1915, it was surrounded by farmland—something difficult to imagine considering its current urban environment. Due to declining enrollment, the school closed in 1975. The building was empty for 22 years, until in 1997 Mike and Brian McMenamin bought it and began their Kennedy School makeover.

Among many subtle renovations, they transformed the gym into a conference room, the cafeteria to a restaurant and bar, and the grassy courtyard to a cozy serving patio. Although the crowd hanging around Kennedy School now is strikingly different from the old days (in age and intoxication level), the neighborhood is still family-friendly.

“It’s kept something alive, it feels good to come here,” says ex-Kennedy Elementary School student Dan Christensen.

Maybe it’s the black and white photography lining the walls, interspersed with intricate paintings. The detail that goes into decorating any McMenamins is actually pretty neat—company historian Tim Hills finds historical photos and talks with locals about the area, then he and the creative team get to work. Their attention to detail is clear. No matter where you look, you’ll catch a glimpse of something pleasing to the eye.

One of the trademark quirks of this McMenamins is the lamp collection. Lining the ceiling of the former cafeteria (now a restaurant) is a cascade of various lamps—lamps that look like vampire squid, adorable rainbow lamps and hulking bulbous lamps, to name a few.

Beneath the diverse lighting you’ll be seated at either a booth or a table. Between this eatery, the patio and the five bars (one of which inhabits Christensen’s fourth grade classroom), there’s an atmosphere for any occasion: a romantic date, a reunion of any sort, a serious one-on-one, a celebration or just because.

Although the music played is questionable (to put it nicely), it’s easy to overlook that with some light conversation and the friendly, helpful staff.

Kennedy School serves brew pub-style food with a few high-end twists. There are choices for virtually any diet: Meat-lover, vegetarian or vegan, there’s something for you. Although McMenamins isn’t your cheapest lunch option, there are quite a few items for under $10, with some running up to $30. The lunch and dinner menus are nearly identical, with only a few differences. For lunch you can order burgers, including the Captain Neon Burger with bleu cheese, which has always been one of their top sellers. Not only do they have the usual “soup of the day,” but also a “fish of the day” for their fish n’ chips option. Pizza is available, as well as a medium-sized selection of salads. I recommend exploring the starters menu, where you can get “cajunized” tater-tots for $6.75, covered in Cayenne-peppery gloriousness, or you could—as I did—go for the fries.

Available at all of their locations, the “fresh-cut fries” are a signature of the McMenamins empire. These greasy specimens of lusciousness come unsalted in small or large baskets, so each member in your party is able to coat them as they please, whether in vinegar or copious amounts of salt and ketchup, as I do.

Since it is a brewery, there is a large selection of ales and beers as well as a selection of wines and other mixed drinks. But don’t be alarmed—there’s a pretty good selection of beverages for those who aren’t old enough (or choose not) to drink. Choose from a list of coffee, teas, cider or an assortment of sodas and non-alcoholic cocktails like the Shirley Temple.

The Kennedy School, being a theater, shows movies in a former auditorium now stuffed to the brim with an assortment of couches and comfy chairs to lounge in. The School also hosts music and other events, which are often free. For instance, on Oct. 29 they invite 21-and-over crowds for “Halloween at the Kennedy School,” where the Freak Mountain Ramblers will be playing and attendees are welcome to wander the corridors in costume.

For me, the most memorable Kennedy School event is the St. Patrick’s Day celebration. Each year they have “leprechauns” roaming the hallways and handing out chocolate coins to kids. The scheduling for their events can be found on their website, www.mcmenamins.com.

“It seemed so innocent back [when I was in elementary school]. We were worried about who would get to the chocolate milk first, not who had the newest cell phone or who got a PSP,” Christensen said. “They’ve managed to preserve that purity.”

To get to the Kennedy School, there are plenty of places to park, but public transportation is also an option. Take any TriMet MAX to Rose Quarter Transit Center and hop on the #73 bus to Northeast 33rd Avenue and Jessup Street, and you’ll be ready for some delicious food in a wonderful atmosphere.

McMenamins Kennedy School

5736 NE 33rd Ave.

503.249.3983