Peppers in Portland

In New Mexico and much of the southwestern United States, the coming of fall marks chili-roasting time. We usually get rain, but thanks to one local farming family, a little taste of the Southwest flavor also comes to Portland every year.

Forest Grove farmers Phil and Elizabeth Smith, 45 and 47 respectively, roast over a dozen varieties of chili peppers at the Portland Farmers Market on Saturdays. Available from super sweet to mouth-scorching hot, the Smiths’ roasted peppers are organically grown and sold in one-pound bags for $5.

In the Southwest, as cooler temperatures settle in, farmers and produce markets set up outdoor, mesh, drum-shaped, propane-fueled roasters, filling the air with the pungent and lightly sweet smoke of the charred pepper’s skin.

Tumbling inside the drum, the chili peppers’ skins are charred from a few minutes’ direct contact with the blue-hot flame. They are immediately sealed into freezer bags while still hot, which allows the skins to separate from the pepper’s meat.

The Smiths have been selling roasted chilies at the market for nine years and usually sell about 1,000 pounds worth on a busy Saturday. The season is short, so many customers like to buy 10 or even 20 pounds of roasted peppers to be sure they won’t run out. That’s because the peppers are perfect for the freezer while still in plastic, and can be enjoyed all winter and spring. Just thaw in the refrigerator overnight and rinse in cold water to remove the stems, seeds and skin.

The rest of the year, the Smiths run a greenhouse business, selling bedding plants and vegetable starts from their 25-acre farm on gently rolling land near the Coast Range foothills. The one acre devoted to peppers has a stunning view of Gales Peak, usually streaked with wispy clouds on cool fall mornings.

Phil Smith said he is “always amazed” by his business’s yearly growth.

One of the Smiths’ favorite varieties is their Sugar Chili, a medium-hot pepper that has a meaty thickness after peeling.

“I think it is easier to handle the heat when the chili has a good sweetness,” said Elizabeth Smith.

Elizabeth uses her chilis in omelets, soups, casseroles and salads, and she hands out recipes at the booth, which they hope to maintain through November.

Marinated PeppersUse these as part of an antipasto platter, on sandwiches or to adorn salads.

1 pound peppers, red or green (your choice), peeled, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch strips1/2 teaspoon paprika, Spanish, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water3 tablespoons olive oil2 tablespoons red wine vinegar1/8 teaspoon dried thyme1 clove garlic, sliced very thin, lengthwise1 teaspoon minced parsley1 bay leaf1 tablespoon minced shallots or onionSea saltFresh ground pepper

Instructions: Mix dressing, using all ingredients except peppers. Add pepper strips and mix well. Allow to marinate overnight in the refrigerator or at least eight hours. Lasts for weeks if chilled and covered.

Corn and Chili ChowderThis soup gets better after a day in the fridge, so make plenty for lunch tomorrow. Yields about eight cups of soup.

4 ears sweet corn, cutting kernels off the ear, saving the interior cob3 cups chicken stock3 cups heavy cream or half-and-half7 slices bacon, sliced into �_-inch pieces1 large onion, diced1 pound potatoes, cut into �_-inch cubes1 pound roasted peppers, red or green (your choice), peeled, seeded and dicedSea salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

In a large pot, simmer cream, stock and corncobs for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove cobs.

Brown bacon in a skillet, set aside and save 3 tablespoons of drippings. Saute onion in the bacon drippings until translucent. Add potatoes, onion and peppers to cream mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Garnish with crumbled bacon and minced parsley.

For vegetarians, omit bacon and saut퀌� onions in 3 tablespoons of butter.

-Recipes courtesy of Elizabeth Smith